Out With the Greenwashing: New York Could Soon Pass the Nation's First Sustainable Fashion Bill

The Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act could see leading brands held accountable for violations against workers and the environment.

New York could soon become the first state to pass a bill that will hold major fashion brands accountable for their social and environmental impact. 

Sponsored by Senator Alessandra Biaggi and Assemblywoman Anna R. Kelles, the Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act is supported by numerous environmental and human rights groups.

If the law passes, fashion brands operating in New York and bringing in over $100 million in global revenue will be required to reduce greenhouse gas emissions and energy consumption across their supply chains, and perform mandatory due diligence to prevent the abuse of its workers.

This act would apply to brands from all corners of the fashion industry, from luxury apparel houses including Prada and Armani to fast-fashion players including Shein. 

Companies that do not comply with the law will face fines of up to 2% of revenues of $450 million or more, according to the legislation. All fines received from company violations would be used to fund "environmental benefit projects that directly and verifiably benefit environmental justice communities," according to the bill.

"The fashion industry is responsible for a staggering 4 - 8.6% of global greenhouse gas emissions and has been permitted to operate unchecked by regulations that would curb pollution and the use of exploited, forced, and child labor," said State Assemblywoman Anna R. Kelles, co-sponsor of the bill. 

The bill was introduced in October and referred to a legislative committee on Wednesday. If passed, fashion brands will be required to show at least 50 percent of their supply chain network, disclose the type and amount of materials produced by their suppliers annually, and report on the number of recycled materials. They will also have to clearly communicate their energy, greenhouse gas emissions, water, plastic, and chemical management.

The first-of-its-kind law would promote further transparency in regards to workers in the fashion industry. Companies would be required to report the wages paid by their suppliers, with comparison checks to local minimum and living wages. 

Companies would have to provide all of these disclosures on their websites and to hold brands to account, an annual report would be released by New York’s state attorney naming any companies that are found to be breaching the law. Citizens would then be able to file civil suits against those retailers.

“As a global fashion and business capital of the world, New York State has a moral responsibility to serve as a leader in mitigating the environmental and social impact of the fashion industry,” said State Senator Alessandra Biaggi, co-sponsor of the bill. 

Fashion designer and sustainability advocate, Stella McCartney, has endorsed the act noting that it is crucial that the fashion industry "commit now to taking measurable action towards mitigating our impact for a more sustainable, ethical and mindful future."

The bill is currently in committee with a vote expected in late spring.


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